I moved to Tokyo for a design job and expected the paperwork to be painful. The ward office took one visit, my bank account opened within a week, and trains made a car pointless. Rent in the centre is high, so I live two stops outside the Yamanote line and pay much less. The hardest part was making friends outside work, which improved once I joined a weekend cycling group.
Kyoto is calm, beautiful and full of universities, so students are everywhere and the city is built for us. I cycle to class along the Kamo River every morning. Rent is lower than Tokyo: my student apartment is 38,000 yen a month. Temples and gardens are free or cheap on weekdays, and Osaka is only 30 minutes by train when I want a bigger city or job fairs. The downsides are the tourist crowds in central areas, humid summers and cold, damp winters in old buildings. Part-time jobs are easy to find if you speak some Japanese. For a student, I cannot imagine a better place.
Kyoto University is famous in Japan for its independent spirit, and I feel it in my lab. Students are encouraged to follow their own questions, and my professor gives real freedom. Tuition for national universities is reasonable, and fee reductions are available for students with good grades and financial need. The international office runs orientation, Japanese classes and tutoring. Labs can be demanding, and many courses are in Japanese, so N2 or higher is very useful even in English programmes. Campus facilities are older than some private universities, but the research quality is outstanding.
Two years in Tokyo were some of the best of my life. It is enormous but feels like a collection of villages: every neighbourhood has its own shopping street, bathhouse and cafés. Trains are punctual to the minute, and I felt safe everywhere at any hour. Food is excellent at every price point, from a 500 yen bowl of soba to a special occasion omakase. The difficult parts are the job market if your Japanese is below N2, small apartments, and a work culture that can be demanding. Loneliness is common, but share houses, language exchanges and clubs make it easier to meet people. I would move back tomorrow.
I booked a room in an Oakhouse share house from France before I arrived and moved in on my second day in Japan. The English contract and low upfront cost were exactly what I needed. My room was small but clean and furnished, and the common fee included utilities and wifi. Common areas were cleaned twice a week by staff. Housemates were a mix of Japanese and foreign residents, which helped my Japanese. The downsides were thin walls, occasional queues for the shower and a kitchen that depended on everyone's habits. For a first six to twelve months, I would recommend it.
I added Suica to my phone on my first day in Tokyo, and it made life so easy. It works on every train, subway and bus in Tokyo, most other big cities, and in convenience stores, vending machines and many cafés. Topping up from the phone is instant. Tapping through gates is fast even at rush hour. The mobile version is easiest on iPhone, while some Android phones are not compatible. Physical cards had a supply shortage for a while, although that has improved. There is no discount compared with paper tickets, but the convenience is worth it.
After my first bank turned me down because I had been in Japan for less than six months, a friend recommended Shinsei (now SBI Shinsei Bank). I opened an account at a branch in Tokyo with my residence card and a Japanese phone number. The online banking has an English interface, which is rare in Japan. ATM withdrawals at convenience stores were free or cheap depending on my account level, and international transfers were possible, although not the cheapest. Staff were patient with my Japanese. Branches are limited outside big cities.